| What is material used for scissors? |
| We use high carbon stainless steel and Japanies 420 J2
Steel for our scissors |
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| Tell us about Titanium Coated scissors? |
| We are the first Pakistani company who have introduced
these titanium coated scissors.Titanium coated scissors are highly being
demanded these days.A thin film of titanium is coated on scissors using
advanced technical machines which increases the life of scissors and
increases it's sharpness and gives scissors an attractive look.Titanium can
be coated on all barber scissors styles including thinning shears and
grooming shears. |
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| What are barber scissors accessories? |
| Barber scissors accessories are also available separately.
These are
Finger rest+screw+clicker
set (Gold Plated) ,Scissor finger ring (All colors),Washers for
clicker,Washer for finger rest,Ring Stopper,Oil bottle |
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| What is type of stamping on each barber shear? |
| We do screen printing on barber scissors.Any company's logo
or name can be imprinted on each shear. |
| |
| Give some packing details? |
| Individual scissors are packed in Valvet cases,Leather
holsters,leather cases.Scissors are also packed in Blister packing |
| |
| What is Acrylic scissor Stand? |
| Acrylic scissors stand is made up of acrylic transparent
plastic sheet.This is used for protecting expensive barber scissors in
salons.A must item for salons these days. |
| |
| What is Swivel Thumb scissors? |
|
The
rotating thumb ring allows the hairdresser to use the scissors at different
angles without moving the hand or wrist into an awkward position.Stressing
the wrist is also a major cause of Carpal Tunnel Syndrome which is a type of
RSI (Repetitive strain injury). The added advantage of the swivel scissor is
the added distance or gap between the thumb hole and the finger hole so the
travel of your thumb movement is not as restricted or cramped and is again
in correct "alignment" |
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| Tell us about
texturising scissors and techniques. |
The Purpose
Texturising means adding texture to
your style cut. This is done to give lift and break up the hair texture,
giving that see through 'punky' look. Now this can be done by several
methods such as 'interior chipping' but, for this article, I will explain a
technique called 'weave cutting' and the use of texturising scissors.
The Technique
 Weave cutting
is a very accurate and controlled way of adding texture to the cut. Some of
the older hairdressers may remember this technique as it has been around a
long time, but is seldom taught today. After finishing the basic cut, you
work through your sections that you wish to texturise with a tail comb,
weaving and separating each section in a similar fashion to the technique
used for foil streaks. You can see this being done in the first photo. When
you are happy with the placement of hair, you use your cutting scissors to
place the texture EXACTLY where you want it. The hair can be cut at varied
angles, as shown in the second photo. This technique can be used to vary the
texture to the hairdresser's requirements and is easier to perform and more
controlled than internal chipping. If heavy texturing is an important part
of the style you are creating, you may want to look at the latest
texturising scissors.
The Texturising Scissors
A similar effect
can be achieved with a pair of texturising scissors (as seen in photo
three). These scissors have the advantage of speed and can be used
vertically as well as horizontally. They are also an excellent tool for
breaking up perimeters, and can be used instead of thinning scissors to
reduce bulk. Now, many of you will remember the texturising scissors which
were sold ten or fifteen years ago which were 'grabby' and didn't perform
the task well. Today's models usually have fifteen or sixteen teeth that cut
the hair in tiny, distinct clumps. They are far better made and balanced. A
quality pair can be serviced easily and will last you the rest of your
career if you keep them well oiled and adjusted.
|
| |
| How scissors are
kept sharp? |
ADJUSTMENT
It is CRITICAL that
your scissors stay in the correct adjustment. All scissors need to be
adjusted regularly. Here’s an easy method for you to check the adjustment
yourself (yes, this is your job - not the Scissor Man’s). Photo One shows
the scissors held in what we call the "nine o’clock" position, now if the
horizontal handle is released, the scissors should NOT CLOSE but stop
somewhere between "ten o’clock" and "eleven o’clock", as shown in photo two.
This method works for 90% of scissors on the market. Some long blades or
scissors with a balance face insert may need to be tighter, no scissors
should be looser - you can adjust your scissors by turning the screw or knob
clockwise a little at a time and re-checking.
HANDLING
 The first thing to
remember is treat them gently - contrary to popular belief, the most
valuable scissors ARE the MOST DELICATE and need extra attention because
they have the finest edges. When scissors are new/freshly serviced, don’t go
chomping away at heavy sections, give them two weeks of light work to run
the edges in. Scissors with a fresh edge are easier to damage than run in
scissors, don’t pressure the scissors - it could catch or even break an
edge. When your scissors are new or freshly serviced, take things a little
slower and watch what you are doing - most hairdressers will cut themselves
with new scissors because they are not used to them.
Place your scissors down and pick them up as if they were a tea cup. Most
people would never dream of dropping a tea cup on a bench because they know
it would chip yet, a tea cup is much cheaper than a good pair of scissors!!
When you are cutting scissor over comb, cut half a centimetre away from the
comb so as not to damage the scissors by accidentally cutting into the comb
(if you need to cut closer because your scissors are pushing hair, they
either need adjustment or they could be blunt!). Store your scissors in a
place where they won’t get damaged (in the sheaf, pouch or case), do not put
them in trolley trays where they can be chipped easily by brushes and bits
and pieces. Keep your scissors away from sterilising solution and damp
towels in front of sterilising jars, if you are doing this, you will find
your scissors blunt, spotty and corroded.
CLEANING AND
OILING
Scissors are not
meant to be used dry (without oil). Oil them EVERY DAY with a good quality
scissor oil . This will make them cut better, stop them corroding and they
will last longer. Your scissors should be cleaned at the END OF THE DAY and
left cleaned and oiled overnight. Rinse your scissors with warm water at
your basin and carefully wipe them dry, oil the area between the blades,
working the scissors so any ground up hair or moisture is expelled by oil.
Now CAREFULLY spread the oil on the inside of the scissor blades with your
finger. If you haven’t done this before, ask your local Scissor Man to show
you how. If you’re in a hurry, at the very least wipe and oil your scissors
before you run out the door. |
| |
Shear Terminology
(1) Point - the end points of the blade
(2) Edge - the sharpened edge along the length of the blade
(3) Tension Screw - mechanism to adjust the tension of the shear
(4) Ride - the point where the blade and the handle are joined
(5) Shank - the handle of the shear
(6) Neck - the area where the shank meets the ring (i.e. thumb/finger hole)
(7) Thumbhole - the ring where you stick your thumb in
(8) Finger Insert - spacers inserted into thumb/finger holes
(9) Finger hole - the ring where you stick your finger in
(10) Stopper - a dampening mechanism that softens the impact and keeps the
handle from metal to metal to contact
(11) Finger rest or Tang - a short handle extending from the fingerhole to
rest your fingers on
(12) Handle -
Characteristics of Shears
Handles
-Levelset: classical design used by stylists who prefer using their middle
finger to cut. The thumb and finger holes are equal distance from the joint
-Offset: a newer design used by stylists who prefer using their ring finger
to hold the shear. The thumb handle is shorter than the finger handle, which
reduces over-extension of the thumb and eases the stress on your hand
-Crane handle: a modern, ergonomic design where the handles are offset to
keep the hands more open, and angled to drop the elbow position. This handle
design relieves stress on both the shoulder and wrist, especially for
palm-to-palm cutting techniques
Thumb Curvature
- Standard: a standard grip where the two fingerholes are aligned together
- Cutaway Thumb: similar to the standard grip, but the thumb ring has an
indented groove on the end, providing greater comfort
- Butterfly Grip: the thumb handle is anatomically curved for greater
freedom of radial movement
- Revolving Thumb: the thumb ring rotates around the perpendicular axis of
the handle, eliminating strain applied to the hand and wrist. The wider
distance between the thumb and finger hole reduces thumb travel when cutting
Blade Shape
- Beveled Edge: classic blade design where the cutting edge has a straight,
flat face. Although bevel edged shears require the most force to cut, it can
cut very well, and is designed for blunt cuts and point cuts. This edge
design is most common on barbering shears and thinning shears
-Convex Edge: technologically advanced design that offers smooth, razor
sharp edges. The convex edge utilizes the same design engineering as
surgical knives, where unlike the beveled edge which has a flat face, the
convex edge has an even curve from the rear of the blade toward the edge,
forming a very fine angle along the blade's edge. This design allows the
user to do slide cuts, slice cuts, chipping and fan cuts. Blunt cuts and
point cuts require less force than the beveled edge, and leaves a softer,
smoother cut face; however, the edge will not last as long as the beveled
edge when performing blunt work
-Sword Blade (or Kengata): Incorporating the shape of the European swords,
the sword blade design has a triangular cross section. Unlike the thick rear
of the convex edge's blade, the thin rear of the sword blade does not push
the hair away from the cut point, thus making them the best blade designed
for advanced texture cutting, deep chipping and long slice cuts and slide
cuts. In general, the sword blade outperforms convex edges, even if they are
both made of the same material
- Thinners and Texturizors: these shears have a unique blade where, in
general, one blade is normal (usually a convex edged blade), but the other
blade resembles a comb, where it has slits that run perpendicular along the
edge of the blade, forming 'teeth'. The teeth are usually bevel edged, and
the spacing and deep teeth of thinners and texurizors enables the user to
remove bulks of hair without reducing the overall hair length. The amount of
hair removed and the overall effects will vary significantly with its
design, such as the number of teeth, the edge design of the teeth, the width
between each tooth and the width of each tooth.
Tension Systems
- Coin Adjustable Tension Screw: the most basic tension system where the
tension screw is adjusted with a coin or a flathead screwdriver. Remember:
righty tighty, lefty loosey.
- Micrometric Screw: compared to ordinary tension screws, the Micrometric
screws have a much shorter interval between each threading, allowing the
user to fine-tune and achieve a more accurate tension .
- Leaf-Spring Tension Adjustment Plate: these tension adjustment plates have
two key advantages. First, the plate applies an equal amount of tension
pressure over a wider area to stabilize the blades, thus extending the life
of the shear. The second advantage is our plate's tension-locking mechanism.
This mechanism helps maintain the same amount of tension during use by
'locking' the screw at the desired tension point.
- Ball Bearing Movement: ball bearings are the ultimate companion to
rotating parts because it greatly reduces the amount of friction between the
bearing and the rotating axle. Ball bearings have little balls lined-up
between the outer and inner bearings in a ring-like configuration. As the
rotating axle rotates, the outer bearing remains stationary while the inner
bearing rotates along with the axel, causing the balls to revolve and rotate
between the bearings. This allows for a near-friction-free rotation, and
helps eliminate the tension caused by friction of rotating parts.
Material
- Stainless Steel: Some stainless steel alloys are good for cutlery. They
can be hardened to acceptable levels and maintain malleability. Stainless
Steel performs best when they are forged.
- Cobalt: Cobalt is a very hard metal, but brittle unless combined with
other metals to make an alloy. With just cobalt alone, it easily chips and
nicks, and cannot be readjusted after multiple shear sharpening.
- Molybdenum: Molybdenum is a strong metal with high flexibility. When they
are properly hardened, they can be as hard as Cobalt while still maintaining
there malleability. They can be combined with Cobalt to create an alloy with
high strength and durability.
- steel. cobalt, molybdenum, vanadium, chromium, tungsten
Shaping
- Casting: Liquid metal is poured into a mold. If properly hardened, it can
be durable, but will not hold the edge as long as a forged shear
- Drop Forging: A weighted mold is dropped with great pressure on to a hot
bar of steel. The alloy is pounded into a desired shape which makes the
metal more dense. The blade holds an edge longer and is more malleable.
- Compression Forging: The metal is crushed into a desired shape, yielding a
highly dense metal. Compression Forging makes it possible to have a lighter
shear with tremendous strength.
Other
- titanium coating, super mirror finish, triple annealed, vacuum & sub-zero
tempering
Cutting Styles & Techniques
cutting position depending on handle type
point cut
blunt cut
slide cut
slice cut
chipping
fan cut
Thinning Styles & Techniques
thinning
tapering
blending
texturizing
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