Tips for groomers

After years of manufacturing scissors/shears for pet groomers, We have seen pet groomers use very light and delicate shears made from the cheapest metal that will bend and quickly get out of adjustment and then, We have seen pet groomers use scissors that need corrugations on one blade to keep hair from “slipping” while being cut. All these shears have one thing in common. They are made to cut human hair. The blades are so thin and fragile, they bend or break when kicked off a grooming table, We wondered why they were using shears designed for use on human hair (barbers and beauticians shears) and not using a more rugged scissors/shears for the demanding use pet groomers put them through. As you will agree, pet groomers need shears that will cut the finest cat or puppy hair or the toughest Great Pyrenees dog hair. Then We finally realized the only place they could get scissors/shears was at barber/beauty supply houses. So We decided pet groomers were in need of their own special use scissors/shears and if no one else was going to provide scissors for this special need, then Venus Worldwide would do it..

Though pet groomers like the features that the better barber/beautician shears have, they are so expensive ($100.00 - $600.00) that pet groomers are mindful that an accidental kick off the grooming table could be disastrous.
With these things in mind We set out to create a family of strong, rugged and yet comfortable scissors especially for pet groomers that will have an exceptionally sharp cutting edge and still retain this sharpness for an acceptable period of time. All our scissors are convex edge ,hollow ground with adjustable screws,have thicker blades than barber/beautician scissors, which should make them more likely to survive a fall from a groomer table.
All models will have adjustment knobs like the most expensive shears. This will allow you to just turn the knob a few clicks to the right or left until you find the adjustment you like. No more having to tighten them with a screwdriver and having the screw head strip out, or have to use “loc-tight” to keep the screw from getting loose.
All these scissors are made of Japanese 420 J2 Stainless Steel and have a Rockwell hardness of 58-60, which will insure the sharpness and will last longer, but will not prevent re-sharpening when needed..
All have a bright finish. All you have to do is wipe them down at the end of the day.
They are tested for sharpness on wet tissue paper and hard horse hair at the factory to insure that the hair does not “slip”.
They are all hollow ground, which forms a razor cutting edge to insure sharpness.
All models have bumpers to decrease the “shock” you receive when cutting.
The 8” shears have a short thumb shank, which is slightly offset to reduce fatigue and decrease the possibility of carpal tunnel disease.
All models have finger rests.
All have removable finger pads.

Now groomers will be able to afford good equipment. Good equipment is necessary for the professional.
 

Proper care will extend the life of your shears. At the end of each day's use, wipe the blades clean with a soft cloth. Oil the screw area and the blades with a light-weight shear oil.Keep your scissors in leather cases or holsters.See our leather cases and holsters on following page.Leather holsters

With proper care and maintenance, quality shears will last for many thousands of haircuts. Listed below are some suggestions to help you get the longest life and the maximum benefit from your investment.
1. SHEARS CLEAN AND DRY.
Oil at least every other day. Open the shear fully (X-shaped) and place a drop or two of lightweight shear oil around the screw. Move the blades so that the oil will work into the hinge and on the blades, then wipe off the excess. Store them in leather cases or sleeves, which absorb any moisture, unlike plastic cases, which can produce more moisture.

2. HAVE BACKUPS.
Imagine how frustrating it would be if you are in the middle of a cut and your scissors get knocked off of your table. When you pick them up, they won't even close. It can and does happen. Most professionals not only have several pairs of scissors, but, they "retire" aging scissors while they still have useful life left. Therefore, they always have top quality back up equipment.

3. RE-CONDITIONING SHARPENING
With the many considerations in purchasing shears, price, style, design, etc. always purchase shears from someone who REALLY knows scissors. Consider shears an investment, and always put quality before quantity in starting or adding to a collection. Don't purchase because of looks or packaging; some inferior shears look great, but their edges won't last like quality shears. As Our Tools Have Improved So Have our Techniques.Now that shears are available in a wide variety of styles and sizes in many price ranges, every groomer should be able to find models to enhance his or her productivity, pride and performance. Of course, there's no telling what might be available tomorrow because manufacturers are improving their shears almost as rapidly as groomers are raising their standards. During this session, we'll consider the physical aspects of shears as well as the art of scissoring.
Bumpers or silencers, the little pieces of rubber or plastic that keep your scissors from clattering in the dog's ear, can occasionally fall out When this happens the blades will also cross when closed. This is a dangerous condition, with the blades exposed to you and the pet. Send the shear in for service. Bad haircuts can be fixed because hair grows back; bad sharpening is forever. Most street "grinders" remove excess metal which shortens the scissor's life. Grinding also overheats the blades which causes them to loose their temper or hardness. bad sharpening is expensive at any price. Precision honing (one of many steps used to sharpen a scissor), is a very exacting water cooled process that removes only a small amount of metal while restoring the edge to factory or better condition.
 

Technological Measures

An important improvement in the design of modem shears is the shortening of the shanks. With a shorter shank you can achieve a more comfortable grip with the index and middle fingers. Also, you do not have to move your thumb as far to open the shears fully. That, in turn, reduces stress on the thumb muscles and wrist tendons. Raised thumb holes (rings) further reduce the distance you must move the thumb to operate the shears. Adjustable tension knobs are becoming a familiar sight on new shears. These dial-like devices allow you to fine-tune the feel of your shears without using shears, pliers or screw- drivers. For example, you might tighten the tension to work on thicker, plush coats and loosen it slightly to work on thinner, wispier coats. When the tension is set correctly, the shears cut smoothly and quietly. To check the tension, hold the shears open as far as your thumb allows. Take your thumb out of the thumb hole and allow the shears to close. When set correctly, the tips of the blades should just barely meet
Venus Worldwide has made important technological advances that have fostered the development of state-of-the-art shears. One such improvement involves the use of higher quality materials in manufacturing. Of course, the type of steel used determines to a great extent how long the shears will last and how often they will need sharpening. Harder, more durable metals - which are more expensive - ensure longer life for the shears and their cutting blades. Stainless steel/ cobalt alloys seem to keep an edge longer, yet they aren't much heavier than other metals.
We have improved the types of edges given to cutting blades. Hollow-ground blades are carved out on the inside, reducing the shears' weight and creating a thinner,angled edge that cuts more smoothly Honed edges, found on many hand-crafted shears, are razor sharp. Serrated edges are designed to catch and hold the hair during scissoring, but they have become less popular since the development of the smoother cutting edges.
 

Choosing your  shears

Every professional groomer needs a collection of shears to execute various grooming styles easily and quickly. A well-rounded collection would include 9-inch shears for larger breeds, 8.5-inch shears for general purpose scissoring, 7-inch shears for smaller breeds, curved shears, bent-shank shears, and two thinning shears - one for finish work and one for bulk hair removal. Thinning shears, in various lengths and styles, constitute "the shears of the '90s" - and they are a necessary part of any groomer's collection. Thinning shears with a 50-tooth blade (or finer) are excellent for finish work and blending. They give coats a soft-edged appearance and produce Schnauzer and Terrier furnishings that look natural. Used to thin over scissored Lhasas and similar breeds with silky, flowing coats, these shears blend in and remove blunt ends. Thinning shears with a 30 tooth blade give breeds such as Scotties and Westies a hand-stripped look. They also give trimmed ears and bangs a natural, smooth appearance. They even thin out heavy coats and help to prevent matting in breeds such as Cockers, Afghans, etc, Curved shears let you cut corners - literally. They are real time-savers. And, considering that most scissoring is supposed to achieve round or curved surfaces, it seems only natural to use curved shears on dogs ranging from Bichons to Bouviers. Gain experience with these shears by rounding off feet, topknots and tails. Experiment with them in reverse to create angulation above the hock joint. You might even use them to create the arch on some Terriers' eyebrows. Many groomers who have had difficulty shaping round and curved edges seem to have more success when they are using curved shears. Now come to our Filipino shears ,these scissors has wider blade than other grooming scissors. These are excellent for cutting bulk hairs. These scissors feature superb smoothness and sharpness. Nose scissors are used to remove hairs from nose, ears and in between fingers.
Bent-shank shears appear to be out of line, but they actually help you achieve a straighter line because they keep your hand and fingers away from the coat. Not only do they make it easy to scissor toplines and legs, they also allow you to scissor Bichon-type feet without hitting your fingers on the table.

Most of the time groomers have questions about rounding top- knots Here's one method, cut each side of the topknot from the outside corner of the eye to the back of the head. Scissor a very fine line over the ear to separate it from the head. Cut over the eyes, angling your shears forward to create a slight visor effect. Cut the back of the topknot up just below the occiput bone. The head should look square or rectangular. Go over all the square edges with curved shears to achieve a round look. Take the top down to balance the head. Be sure to view each profile while you are scissoring the head. Directional body scissoring is another area of concern to many groomers. Generally, you want to hold the shears in a horizontal position over most of the dog's body. However, you should scissor in a downward position in the chest, shoulder and hip areas, flowing with the shape of the dog's body. Scissor in a vertical position, pointing your shears up or down, on the legs. Before you lift a dog's leg to scissor, be sure top cut in guidelines with the dog standing in a natural position. A Fine Art The art of scissoring could be defined as "using shears as an extension of your individual artistic ability." As a scissoring artist, you must translate the visual information of what you see into the action of scissoring to create something you have visualized in your mind. The actual scissoring motion is quite simple and it is possible to develop speed and dexterity over time. However, achieving balance, proportion and symmetry requires knowledge, practice and confidence

If you have any question or need further information or assistance, please don't hesitate to contact us.

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